Ad Hoc - Yountville, CA

Ad Hoc sure comes off as one flaky restaurant. Back in 2006, Thomas Keller opened shop and intended for it to be short-lived, aiming to eventually open a burger place or something similar. At the time, I was still in college on the other side of the country and remember feeling distinctly disappointed that I would miss out on Keller's second aptly-named-common-Latin-phrase restaurant. You see, I had to put all those years of dead language studies to good use. Turns out Ad Hoc stuck around longer than planned, and I had a chance recently to sample TK's hand at upscaling the downmarket on a Napa shenanigans weekend with J, J, and P (and a surprise run-in with L).

Admittedly, my expectations going in were high. I had an excellent experience at The French Laundry and a lesser but still good one at Per Se (entree courses were lackluster; signature canapes were good). Ad Hoc is known to be the holy grail of fried chicken (don't mind if I do!), but alas, we came on the wrong day. In any case, I had in mind to expect attention to detail and high-quality ingredients in other forms of non-chicken from Keller's charmed kitchen.


Salad of Baby Mixed Greens - cara cara and blood oranges, ruby grapefruit, toasted pinenuts, belgium endive, kalamata olives, citrus dressing

A massive heap of crisp greens and particularly good pine nuts arrived; the dressing was also quite good. Overall, it was a standard, fresh salad - quality not hard to find in in many good Bay Area restaurants. The portion size was somewhat off-putting; I wasn't at all compelled to keep filling my plate but the folks at Ad Hoc strangely (i.e. pragmatically) want you to eat a whole lot of salad.


Marinated Hanger Steak - toscano kale, creamed turnips, rosemary potatoes,  lemon scallion vinaigrette

The vegetable sides were the highlight of the course, and as it turns out, the entire meal. The roasted rosemary potatoes were very, very tasty. Each bite-sized piece had a thin, crisped layer of skin that was bursting with flavor. The creamed turnips and kale (not pictured) were delicately prepared. The steak was good-quality, but ultimately forgettable compared to its brilliant vegetable counterparts.


Rosso di Langhe - apple-endive chutney, palladin toast

This, like the salad, felt like a filler course to me.


Flourless Chocolate Cake - amaretto semi freddo

Ad Hoc's concept just doesn't entirely work for me. Keller has always said he strives to elicit the "God, I wish I had just one more bite of that" reaction with his food. With the exception of the rosemary potatoes and creamed kale, the sheer quantity of each course and lack of variety became a burden in this meal. I would like to see the kitchen improve the first course, or incorporate more sides at the very least.

One meal at Ad Hoc is equivalent to about a sixth of one at The French Laundry. It is clearly cheaper in nominal terms,  and you still technically eat at a Thomas Keller restaurant. And fine, maybe you insist on the casual environment and can't enough of the family style because you're convivial and love to share out of a large All-Clad pan. But $49 is simply overpriced for what you get, and the TK brand alone does not justify forgoing better options in the area. Moreover, you can get better upmarket comfort food elsewhere. For a true Thomas Keller experience, skip this and book the real thing (for a good time, call +1-707-944-2380).

$49 per head; 4 courses, family style. Portions shown above (excluding dessert) are for 4. Menu dated 16-January-2010. 

Ad Hoc
6476 Washington Street
Yountville, CA 94599-1294
(707) 944-2487

Per Se - New York

11:20
A: Hey HH, I'm in New York this weekend, and I know this is pretty last minute, but would you like to have lunch at per se?
hh: Hey A! Wow, I'd love to, but I might have to go into the office today. What time is the reservation? Is this for real? I'd been working 90+ hours, are my wits failing me?
A: 1:15. I'm leaving New York in the afternoon, and they just called me about a table opening up. If I don't find someone to go, they will charge me $150 for a no-show.
hh: Hm, I really don't think I can go, but I'll ask around for you to see if anyone's free. I'll call you back.

This could either be the most unexpected best day ever or the most wasted opportunity of my life. What happens if I get called into the office mid-lunch? I definitely need to go in today, it's more a matter of when I'd be getting the call. And I have to get coffee with someone before that. Crap, I really can't go, I need to find someone.

11:30
hh: Hey, do you want to go to per se?
J: When?
hh: 1:15
J: Man, I just got out of the shower, I'd have to leave right now. I don't have enough time...

12:00
Walk around, check email compulsively, lie in bed, get out of bed, stare blankly into space.

12:20
I have no idea what I'm doing. All I want to do is sleep. But I also want per se. Who in his/her right mind can say no to per se? A masochist, I suppose. I'll give A a call.

hh: Hey A, I think I'll go.
A: Great! I'll see you at per se at 1:15.

12:30
Heels, dress pants, belt, blouse: a versatile outfit so I can head straight to work afterward in a gluttonous stupor

12:45
Cab to Columbus Circle

1:00
Stuck in the 50s going cross town

1:10
Still stuck. Loathing traffic, civilization

1:20
Arrive at Columbus Circle, hustle past naked lady statue (is this meant to be a replica of the Woman from Willendorf or what?) up the escalators. I sure can go for a Bouchon Bakery double espresso



1:25
Arrive at the blue double doors of per se, futilely pull on knob, internally berate myself for being late and an idiot

1:26
Walk into the glass door, lo and behold it slides open. Hilarity doesn't ensue, berate myself more for being an idiot. Hostess arrives, asks if I'm ok, shows me to the table

1:28
Finally seated. Damn, this place is corporate. A tells me that she ordered the chef's tasting menu for me since she couldn't stay long

1:30 - 3:00
I had no idea what was on the menu for the day. Everything arrived as a surprise, which was reminiscent of the Alinea experience.


Gougere with Gruyere puffs

A Thomas Keller classic, can't get enough of these cheesy morsels


Salmon tartare and red onion creme fraiche on crispy sesame tuile cornet

Another TK classic, I really cannot get enough of these. I could eat a hundred of these and still find an innovative way to eat them whilst maintaining structural integrity.


Cauliflower "Panna Cotta"
with Island Creek Oyster Glaze and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar

Had this previously when Jonathan Benno had cooked for a guest chef event, but it wasn't very memorable. This time, I enjoyed the slight bitterness of the cauliflower with the salty caviar, the thick custard texture of the former with the creamy beads of the latter.


Fluke sashimi with grapefruit and citrus jus (?)

This didn't happen to be on the menu, but it was a slice of what I thought to be fluke, with a slice of sweet grapefruit. I feel like I've had this somewhere before. Does anyone know what those black things are?


Truffle custard with chip

Never listed on the menu, but I wanted it so I asked. Truffles are my favorite things in the world; its flavor encased in an ethereal custard inside a hollowed egg is no exception.


Salad of marinated abalone mushroom
Slow Baked Heirloom Beets, Grilled Young Red Onion and Garden Mache, with Pickled Shallot Gastrique

The sweetest, juiciest slice of mushroom ever, sans the brininess of an abalone, its non-distant relative. The beet tasted pretty much like a normal beet to me; I did, however, enjoy the puck-like shape of said beet.


Crispy skin fillet of Barramundi
Sauteed Italian Eggplant, Candied Marcona Almonds, Golden Sultanas, Spanish Capers and Petite Mint with Madras Curry "Aigre-Doux" [sweet and sour]

I am a fan of delicate fishes, and the barramundi is one of them. Flaky, tender, and perfectly cooked, with a crispy skin indeed. The flavors were amazing: sweet and sour as per the description. Sour from the dried sultanas, sweet from the almonds, primarily sweet from the curry, and sour from the vinegar. Complex but integrated flavors.


Scottish langoustines "a la plancha"
Handmade Farfalle, Globe Artichokes, Nicoise Olive "Petals", Grilled Red Endive and Extra Virgin Olive Oil Emulsion

This was a let down after the delicious fish. I'm not a fan of lobster nor langoustine in general; I just think the meat is tougher without much added flavor. The whole plate tasted of the ingredients, and not much more. The langoustine was very much unflavored, the farfalle were beautiful to look at but tasted of nothing, and the olives were subdued. I suppose this worked as a palate cleanser. Not good.


All day braised Berkshire pork belly
Compressed Watermelon, Young Fennel, Roquette Leaves and Pork Jus

The pork belly was well roasted (I know it says braised, but whatever). Crispy skin, with moist strands of pork, sandwiched in layers of fat. Yes, it's better than Eleven Madison Parks, if you must know. Furthermore, who would've thought watermelon could go with pork belly? Cool + smoky, sweet + savory works quite well here.


Rib-eye of Marcho Farm's nature fed veal
"Fricassee de Ris et Cervelle de Veau," Herb-Scented Spatzle, Watercress Leaves and Tokyo
Turnips with Brown Butter Veal Sauce

The cut of veal was huge. It's not as juicy nor tender as expected. It becomes more acceptable if I soak the pieces in the veal sauce. The sweetbreads are peppery and tender though, and the Tokyo turnips are some of the best I've ever had. Ok.


Petite Ardi-Gasna
Salad of Summer Squash, "Pain de Champagne," Cherry Tomatoes and Opal Basil with Saporoso Vinegar Reduction

The epitome of a great summer dish. The freshest, crispest squash, along with a sweet cherry tomato that burst in my mouth, tossed with a rich vinegar reduction. Finally, topped with slices of ardi-gasna; the ewe who provided the milk for this fine cheese was ever delightful. Why, thank ewe!


Hibiscus sorbet
Mango Coulis, Dragon Fruit, and Shaved Coconut

The hibiscus sorbet was cleansing, fresh and tantalizing; it goes down as my other favorite sorbet next to the satsuma sorbet from the French Laundry. I cared little for the dragon fruit, but the shaved coconut turned out to be a great accent for the hibiscus.


"Tentation au Chocolat, Noisette et Lait"
Milk Chocolate "Cremeaux" and Hazelnut "Streusel" with Condensed Milk Sorbet, "Pain au Lait" Sauce and Sweetened Salty Hazelnuts

Yet another chocolate dessert that I can proclaim to be "good but not ground-breaking." The chocolate is rich and dark, hazelnuts are great, etc. etc. etc.


"Degustation de Fruits d'ete"
Tristar Strawberry "Consomme" and "Frangipane Croustillante" with Lemon Curd Ice Cream

Rather pedestrian for per se, but good. Fresh berries, ice cream which tastes of a very tart lemon sherbet, and a well-reduced strawberry consomme.


"Mignardises"

I'm too full to eat, but I choose the earl grey and green tea truffles from the tray. I order a pot of monkey-picked tea. I love monkey-picked tea, because what other tea has gone through a monkey's strict standards of tea selection?


We receive a bag of macaroons and another box of chocolates to go.

3:15
What a nice bathroom!

3:20
Make sure not to crash into glass

3:30
Car ride back to work. What a beautiful day!

5:00
Snack on macaroons in office. Did today really happen? I slowly came to discover, yes it did (geez, what a sobering reality indeed). And Per Se was good, but disappointing compared to its better and more charming cousin. The signature Keller appetizers were good, but nearly all the main courses had a major flaw. My impression was that the kitchen had some major consistency issues, but one shouldn't have to put up with that at a restaurant like Per Se.

$275 - Tasting menu

Per Se
10 Columbus Circle
New York, NY 10019
(212) 823-9335

Celadon & Bouchon Bakery

Back to my Bay Area posts. Sorry for jumping around so much, but I still have not yet figured out the order in which I post. I like to think of it as something like a complex algorithm, except it's just more like what I want to talk about at the moment. I'll prob concentrate on SF for the next two weeks until I move down to NYC.


One day during spring break I decided I really wanted Bouchon Bakery goodies. So on a whim, we drove north to Napa and decided that we would just wing it. I was in the mood for some savories, so we first made a stop for lunch. I had in mind to try the Boon Fly Cafe at the Carneros Inn, but I missed it on the highway and ended up in downtown Napa instead. I had heard good things about Pilar, but they were closed for lunch. We parked near the mill, and we wandered around there, stumbling upon Celadon, which is owned by the same guy as Cole's Chop House. The menu seemed light and Californian, and also featured mussels. I was sold.


Napa has beautiful weather, and that day was no exception. We opted to sit in the heated patio near the fireplace.


Maine peeky-toe crab cake with asian slaw and sambal aioli 12

We started off with the crab cake, which was fine but nothing exceptional. The crab was jumbo lump and pretty fresh, but it arrived lukewarm and a bit hard. One could even say it had too much structural integrity - it was a hard puck of crab, and I would have preferred it a bit softer, more prone to fall apart. The asian slaw was pretty uninspired too.


Endive and pear salad with blue cheese, candied walnuts and honey mustard vinaigrette 10

I really enjoyed the salad, however. Everything was super fresh and crunchy, and the bitterness of the endives (one of my favorite vegetables) was nicely offset by the walnuts and honey mustard vinaigrette.


Pan roasted mussels with applewood smoked bacon, tomatoes, and white wine 12.5

The best thing, though, was definitely the mussels. I usually get my mussels fix from Lulu or Plouf, and I must say that Celadon's mussels were plumper, juicier, and fresher than both restaurants. If mussels could be obese, these definitely were. My only discontent was that the bacon was a bit overpowering in the broth, which could have used a lot more white wine. In terms of the broth, I still prefer Plouf's white wine, garlic, and parsley broth. That seriously is like my elixir of life.


Grilled fish sandwich of the day (mahi mahi) with remoulade sauce, lettuce and tomato w/ tarragon tossed french fries 12

I really enjoy fish sandwiches (or fish anything), and this did not disappoint. I am not particularly a fan of mahi mahi, but this was nicely grilled so it was not overdone. The fries, which were cut a bit thicker than shoestring, were pretty good as well.

Overall, lunch at Celadon was pretty enjoyable and leisurely, especially on the patio in the beautiful weather. The prices were very reasonable as well. My only complaint is just that it was a bit TOO leisurely. Perhaps I'm just used to being in a banking mindset, but Celadon's service was just so laidback I became uncomfortable and ADD. We could've sat there all day unbothered if we wanted.


Afterward we headed over to Bouchon Bakery, the very reason we drove up there in the first place. We indulged on a sticky bun, scone, bran muffin, and pear tart. All were good, but the scone really stood out. Flaky and buttery, it stood up to Citizen Cake's scrumptious buckwheat scones.

Celadon
500 Main St.
Napa, CA

Bouchon Bakery
6540 Washington St.
Yountville, CA

Wine Country Shenanigans Pt. 2 - French Laundry

A French laundromat of whorehouse origin, indeed. Continuing this cryptic nonsense, I will go on to describe the two hours that followed our delightful breakfast, in as little detail as possible, of course. Mr. Keller likes to keep dings on da down-low.

So, we were invited into his lair, molested quite a few copper-plated pots and pans, roamed around unbridled in his pristine kitchen, meditated in the meat locker, locked ourselves in the bathroom to shoot some... things, and did some more molesting in the wine cellar. And then we decided to leave the men-in-white to their tasks.


Keller's kitchen getting a shot of botulinum


Destined to be my wallpaper during finals


Does this even need a caption?


As vulnerable as a goose with an unenlarged liver


Medical marjoram

Now that that's out of the way, on to some comprehensible narration. We had roughly one hour to go before lunch at Redd, so a very brief wine-tasting tour was in order. We noted that just few minutes north of Washington St. on 29-N was PlumpJack Winery. As we are quite the suckers for all things sleek+San Francisco, Gavin Newsom's establishment seemed like an ideal spot to relax away the mid-morning. That is, until we settled on Neibaum-Coppola, just a couple of exits farther, instead.

We never made it in, though, and learned one thing during our drive: If you own a piece of hot land alongside Hwy 29, you should not obscure your vineyard's name or hide the entrance driveway to the extent that drivers can't find you. Not only do you risk losing their business, you also risk getting sued for their death in the unforgiving highway traffic.

The disappointment that resulted from our fruitless drive was quickly remedied by a spectacular meal at Redd.

Wine Country Shenanigans Pt. 1 - Bouchon Bakery

While being a rather productive intern one afternoon a few weeks ago, HH IMed me and suggested a Napa excursion. Why? Because we are 80-year-old men with refined interests and a boatload of disposable income. Having very much enjoyed past visits to Wine Country with my family as a kid, and to the French Laundry this past Winter, I couldn't refuse yet another opportunity to sample Napa's ambrosiac culinary offerings, especially with someone who lives to eat more than she eats to live. So, naturally, my response was a "yes". Actually, it was more of an "Aight, letz do dis ding!"

Redd, Cyrus, and Bouchon were among the restaurants under consideration so our only difficulty at that point was narrowing down the choices.

Alright, time for me to take the virtual helm. One of the biggest vexations in life is choosing restaurant; every mealtime is an opportunity, and by settling for one, you forgo the chance to try another. Now then, to the contestants. Bouchon, Thomas Keller's cork, didn't sound all that appealing: French bistro was just too heavy, and we didn't just want to settle for the oysters and bubbly. Cyrus, deemed the "next French Laundry," is all the rage these days. Upon closer examination of the truffled/foied gras-ed/caviared out menu, nothing sounded too interesting. Also, having seen pictures here and there, the plates didn't seem to reach the refinement or sophistication of the French Laundry, because the FL it is not. Of the three, Redd sounded the most refreshing, featuring contemporary American fare with Asian and Latin American influences. We also liked how accessible the restaurant was, without the hustle and bustle for a precious seat. Bouchon Bakery for breakfast and Redd for lunch it was.

Lovers of cheese we are not; however, we love cheese. Armed with a soundtrack housing the likes of Pat Benatar, Jackson Browne, Belinda Carlisle and Phil Collins, we were ready to roll on a sunny Saturday morning. The trip north was only a convertible and couple of Golden Girls silk headscarves away from being the roquefort of cheesy experiences.

We planned the first half of our day meticulously and were confident that spontaneous doodads would carry us the rest of the way into the evening. We were to arrive at Bouchon Bakery early to have a light breakfast so that the refined carbs would be well-digested by our 1pm reservation at Redd.






It was pretty difficult to choose out of the myriad of empty carbs just beckoning for our immediate consumption. Add to that the pressure of having a gazillion Yountvillains behind you, all clamoring for an edible start to the morning, TK style. So, Julyanne went for the unadulteratedly-blue blueblueberry muffin, while I went for a currant scone. The scone was buttery and crumbly, though I think Citizen Cake's buckwheat scones have an edge--those are simply delectable.

She also got a macchiatto, and get this: I order a single cappuccino, I am given a double, but I pay for a coffee. Can this place get any better?

Yes. Because, outside in the seating area, one does not need Saturday morning cartoons. Yountville is a place of many dogs, but even more rampant are dog molesters. We begin with two senior citizens, let's refer to them as Bill and Sue. So poor old Bill and Sue are trying to enjoy their pastries and coffee in peace, when a family of three and their dogs appear.

"I hope they don't see us," Sue mutters.

Too late. The family pulls up many a chair up to the small table and tie down their dogs. So within five minutes, we witness about four passersby come to pat the two poor canines.

"The dogs have bitten people," stammers the uncomfortable mother of one. More esoteric amusement ensues, but I'll just leave it at that.

So we continue on our journey, and come across a french laundromat, of whorehouse origin.



To be continued.

Chef Benno / Per Se

When I heard that Chef Jonathon Benno from per se was coming this time, I just had to get reservations. Since I won't going to French Laundry anytime soon (earliest would be summer), nor will I be able to secure a reservation at per se over spring break, this would be a good opportunity to have the food and meet the chef too. My meal at French Laundry over winter break lived up to all its hype, and this meal lived up to Thomas Keller standard.

A one hour reception featured *unlimited* FL and ps canapes:


"Cornet" of Marinated Atlantic Salmon "Tartare" with Sweet Red Onion "Crème Fraîche"

I never did quite forget these delicious cones, and they were just as good as I remember them. I think I must have had 3 or 4, which was great since I experimented with new ways of eating it (eating from side is nearly impossible).


Gruyère Cheese "Gougères"

Another FL classic and just as delicious as I remember. J mentioned it tasted like a cheese-it. Maybe TK can incorporate that somewhere in the name, in quotes of course.


Roasted Sweet Pepper on Herb-Scented "Panisse"

The panisse is the fried chick-pea cake, which had a slightly crunchy exterior and a very smooth and starchy filling. The texture definitely won over the flavor in this one.


“BLT”: House Cured Bacon, Arugula Purée and Black Truffle on Toasted "Pain de Campagne"

This was probably my least favorite canape. It was good, but there just really wasn't anything really special about it. I opened one and saw a generous shaving of black truffle, but somehow I really could not taste it. They should remove the bacon and arugula and just make it all truffle.


Hudson Valley "Foie Gras Mousse" with Quince "Marmalade" on "Croûton"

This was simply amazing and tops the salmon cornet as my favorite TK canape. I must have had at least 7 or 8 of these. It was a wonderful array of textures-the crunchy "crouton", the creamy and smooth foie gras, and the juicy marmalade. The foie gras was some of the best I've had, and all the flavors worked extremely well. Apparently, it took 4 hours to allumette the chives and place it on the foie gras with tweezers. I suppose it only makes sense that Benno is just as anal as TK.

I could have had an entire meal composed of only the foie gras. In fact, I wish I had jars of it for future eatage.


After all the canapes we proceed into the dining room. J commented on the superfluous quotations on the menu; but really, why is "tartlet" in quotes? Since when is a "tartlet" not a tartlet? If not what in the world is it?


Cauliflower “Panna Cotta” with Island Creek Oyster Glaze and Russian Sevruga Caviar

This is the first course often juxtaposed with the Oysters and Pearls. I really feel that there is no comparison, however. At some points it tasted kind of bitter, perhaps from alkalides in the cauliflower? Anyway, it didn't have the contrast of textures in O&P, and I felt the salty caviar worked a lot better with the sabayon rather than the "panna cotta."


I was excited to see the wonderful Bouchon epidiblets again. They also brought out good ol' Straus family unsalted butter.


Salad of Caramelized Belgian Endive, Winter Citrus “Supremes”, Citrus “Coulis”, Cilantro Shoots and Cilantro Oil

If only all salads could taste like this! The endive was delicious, and the blood orange, orange, and grapefruit slices went well with the savory endive. The zesty sauce on the plate was great too.


“Macaroni and Cheese” - Nova Scotia Lobster “Cuit Sous Vide” Parmesan “Crisp”, Creamy Lobster Broth and Mascarpone-Enriched Orzo

Recall that I was not too excited about the "Caesar Salad" lobster course at French Laundry, but I loved this one. The lobster was creamy and smooth, evident of being cooked in a vacuum pouch. I wish everything I ate could be sous vide!

Again, I really didn't like the parmesan crisp, since it was way too salty and overbearing. The orzo, however, was delicious. So buttery and rich, both texture and flavor complimented the lobster. This was just excellent.


Herb Roasted Rib-Eye and Grilled "Calotte" of Prime Beef "Rissolée" of Fingerling Potatoes, Young Watercress Leaves, Hen-of-the-Woods Mushrooms and "Béarnaise" Reduction

This was probably my favorite of the night. The beef, of Snake River Farms, was the perfect doneness--not a bit overcooked. The rib eye was great, but the star was the prime beef--so fatty and marbled. All the sides were great too. The mushrooms were crispy and tasted almost like a potato chip. The bernaise reduction was excellent. This entree parallels the FL duck breast in my mind. I think J and I were the only ones still savoring the beef when everyone was done for a good 10 minutes.


Shelburne Farm’s Two Year-Aged Cheddar, Apple “Tartlet”, Garden Mache And Cider “Mignonnette”


“Pina Colada” Pineapple Sorbet, Tahitian Vanilla Braised Pineapple, Coconut “nougatine” and Coconut Cream

This was a good dessert, though not as refreshing as the satsuma mandarin sorbet. The pineapple sorbet and braised pineapple were great, but most of all I enjoyed the paper thin pineapple slice. After a while, I got kind of sick of this dessert; it was just more of the same thing.


per se "Tarte au Chocolat" Candied Pecans, Caramelized Bananas and Spiced Caramel Ice Cream

I really liked this one. The caramel ice cream was excellent, and the tart was crunchy and nutty. It was a lot better than the chocolate hazelnut I had at Campton Place. The only thing I wasn't too fond of was the caramelized bananas--they were just mushy and had nothing special to offer.


Then this brought out an assortment of chocolates, shortbread, candies, and tarts. All of them were really good. The shortbread was the same as the ones at FL; the chocolates were great too. The lemony crumble cake was one of my favorites.


As if I hadn't eaten enough for the night, they brought out mini madelines. I love madelines, and these were great; fluffy, not too sweet, and still hot. They went well with my espresso.


Chef Benno and the team

I hear he is quite godlike in the kitchen; everyone is quiet, "like performing surgery." I remember the FL kitchen stood out to me because it was so hushed and everything revolved around the hovering TK. I guess it's the same with Benno.


They gave us some macaroons to take home: vanilla, chocolate, and almond. I had them the day after and they were great.

Overall, it was an excellent meal. I ate a great quantity, but it did not feel heavy at all; sated but not overloaded. When I went out to shake Benno's hand and to get his autograph, he repeated once more, "he is not a dictator." *Nervous laugh*