Wednesday, April 23, 2008

L' Entredgeu - Paris
When A and I were planning restaurants, we had read about a well-regarded Parisian bistro that offered a great prix-fixe at 32 euros. So on the first night we arrived in Paris, we rushed over to 17th to L'Entredgeu, which has been written up several times. I still can't pronounce the name, but I do know that it took a helluva long time to get to. The dining room is the epitome of "authentic Parisian bistro." The wooden tables are covered with checkered red and white table cloth, dimly lit by the low lights overhead. The menu is hand-written on a chalkboard, brought to us by an extremely efficient Linguine-esque server. He might as well have been wearing roller skates.

Quail ballotine with beet vinaigrette

We started off with the quail stuffed with its liver, finished off with parsley and beet vinaigrette. The quail had a nice smoky flavor, which was piqued by the parsley and balanced out by the sweet beet juice. However, I was quite sated after two pieces - it was just a lot of meat to be eaten at once.

Lentil cream soup with croutons, bacon, and parmesan

White asparagus meuniere with ham and poached egg

I wish I had ordered this - this was one of the best dishes of the night. Warm white asparagus stalks were braised so tenderly that they just melted in your mouth. The bacon added a great smoky flavor, which was accentuated by the warm, runny egg.


Veal head in crust with soy and sesame vinaigrette

A generous portion of veal head was slow cooked, crusted and seared, and dressed with soy and sesame vinaigrette. The flavors all worked together in a balance of sweet and sour, and the veal was nicely cooked. I just wish I got to taste more - the majority of the piece was fat.

House terrine

Another hit, the terrine was rich, livery, and tender.

Farm raised chicken fricassee with thyme and lemon, served with potato and frog leg rissoles

I had to say that I was disappointed with the chicken, which was rather bland and dry. The accompaniments were quite good, however. The potatoes, spring peas, and onions were slow cooked such that all the flavors fused together for a hearty stew. I just can't get over how bland the chicken was, given the great flavors it was cooked with.

Cod fillet with slow cooked fennel and red pepper in a langoustine jus

The seared cod fillet was perfectly cooked, with crispy skin and delicate, flaky flesh. The fennel, soft and sweet with the red pepper and langoustine, was great with the light fish. While the flavors were great initially, the enjoyment waned and I was bored halfway through.

Roasted lamb chops served with stewed artichokes, olives, and beans

Gamier and fattier than necessary.

Caramelized apples with gingerbread ice cream

Nothing too innovative, but done well. The best part was the ice cream - smooth, creamy, and intense with cinnamon flavor.

Caraibe chocolate mousse

You know how I feel about chocolate.

Brebis cheese

Exotic fruit salad with sorbet

The best dessert of the night. This was just so refreshing: a grassy, citrus sorbet atop of a medley of mango, kiwi, and pineapple. Yes, this combination was not as exotic as I had hoped, but all the flavors, simple as they were, worked together for a flawless, cleansing dessert.

€32 3-course prix fixe.

L' Entredgeu
83, rue Laugier
Paris, France



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